If you're planning a trip to northern Japan and haven't put Towada on your radar yet, grab a pen and add it to the top of your list. Tucked away in Aomori Prefecture, Towada is one of those rare, magical places where untouched wilderness collides with world-class contemporary art.
Whether you're a nature junkie, an art nerd, or just looking to escape the neon rush of Tokyo, Towada serves up a wildly unique vibe. Grab a cup of coffee (or a local apple cider) and let's dive into what makes this northern Japanese gem so undeniably cool.
Ancient Forest by Morning, Kusama Pumpkin by Afternoon
Towada is the ultimate master of duality. On one side, you have Lake Towada and the Oirase Gorge—a pristine, deep-crater lake and a lush, moss-covered river valley that feels ancient and wild. On the other side, you have the city center, which is an open-air playground of modern art. It's the kind of place where you can hike through a primordial forest in the morning and take a selfie with a giant, polka-dotted Yayoi Kusama pumpkin in the afternoon.
Ultraman, Yoshitomo Nara, and the Ghost of Princess Mononoke
Towada feels incredibly cinematic, and it actually has some fantastic ties to Japanese pop culture:
- Major Studio Ghibli Vibes: Walking through the Oirase Mountain Stream feels exactly like stepping into Princess Mononoke. The vibrant green moss, ancient ferns, and sunlight filtering through the canopy will have you half-expecting a Kodama (tree spirit) to pop out from behind a rock.
- The Ultraman Connection: Fans of classic Japanese tokusatsu (special effects) series will love the Towada Art Center. It holds works by Toru Narita, an Aomori native and the genius character designer behind the iconic hero Ultraman and his kaiju enemies.
- Yoshitomo Nara's Masterpieces: World-famous pop artist Yoshitomo Nara has deep roots in Aomori. While you can find his iconic Aomori Dog at the nearby Aomori Museum of Art, Towada is home to his stunning mural, Yoroshiku Girl 2012.
The Three Landmarks You Absolutely Cannot Skip
- Lake Towada: A massive, double-caldera lake formed by ancient volcanic eruptions. The water is a striking, deep cobalt blue. Take a sightseeing cruise or rent a Canadian canoe to experience the vast stillness of the water.
- Oirase Gorge: Flowing directly out of Lake Towada, this 14-kilometer stretch of river is famous nationwide for its spectacular autumn foliage and majestic waterfalls. There's a relatively flat hiking trail right alongside the water that is pure magic.
- Towada Art Center: The beating heart of the city's art scene. Featuring works by international heavyweights like Ron Mueck and Yayoi Kusama, the museum spills out onto the streets, blurring the line between gallery and city.
The Apple Pie Shop That Outshines Everything Else on the Street
Skip the standard tourist traps and head to Soma Kashiho, a local confectionary shop located just a short walk from the art center. Run by a sweet local lady in her 80s and her son, this retro shop serves up what might just be the best apple pie in Aomori (which is saying something, considering Aomori is Japan's apple capital!). They use seasonal local apples, meaning the flavor profile changes depending on when you visit.
Seven Days, Seven Nights: The Dragon Battle That Made the Lake Sacred
Every great Japanese town has a good myth, but Towada's is epic.
Legend has it that Lake Towada was originally ruled by an eight-headed dragon named Hachirotaro. Enter Nansobo, a wandering ascetic monk wearing iron sandals. When Nansobo reached the lake, his sandals finally broke. To claim the lake for himself, Nansobo transformed into a nine-headed blue dragon. The two monsters battled fiercely for seven days and seven nights until Nansobo won, becoming the Seiryu Daigongen (Blue Dragon God) of the lake. To this day, you can visit Towada Shrine in the deep forest by the lake to pay your respects to the victorious dragon monk.
From Cavalry Town to Art Capital: How Towada Reinvented Itself
Before it was a hub for modern art, Towada City was actually a major horse-breeding town for the Japanese Imperial Army cavalry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. While the cavalry is long gone, the city's love for horses remains. You'll notice horse motifs and statues everywhere as you walk down the main street, Kanchogai Avenue.
When the Main Street Was Dying, the City Turned It Into a Museum
Towada is a masterclass in rural revitalization. Years ago, the city's main street was suffering from population decline and becoming a ghost town. Instead of giving up, the city launched the "Arts Towada" project. They turned the entire downtown into an interactive museum. The street furniture? It's art. The plazas? Art. This bold cultural shift didn't just bring tourists; it brought a massive wave of civic pride and young, creative expats who now call Towada home.
Two Things Worth Knowing Before You Go
- "Lake Towada is too hard to get to without a rental car." Totally false! While a car gives you freedom, you can easily take the JR Tohoku Shinkansen to Hachinohe Station and hop right onto the JR Bus Tohoku. It takes you directly through the Oirase Gorge and drops you right at the lake.
- "It's only worth visiting in autumn." While the fall leaves (koyo) here are legendary, Towada is a four-season playground. Winter brings the famous Lake Towada Winter Story festival and skiing through "snow monsters" (frozen trees) at nearby Mt. Hakkoda. Spring offers gorgeous cherry blossoms lining Kanchogai Avenue, and summer provides cool, lush hiking weather.
